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American History

Fashion Fights: The Straw Hat and Zoot Suit Riots

Fashion - Still from 1943's 'Stormy Weather', featuring Cab Calloway in a zoot suit
Still from 1943's 'Stormy Weather', featuring Cab Calloway in a zoot suit. Smithsonian Magazine
Gentlemen with straw boaters. Wall Street Journal

14. The Shift From a Literal Fashion Police to Policing Fashion Via Public Opinion

Eventually, governments ceased to police fashion, and left that to public opinion. Public opinion being what it is, fashion rules were sometimes enforced by violent mobs, like the time when riots erupted in American cities over the choice of hats. Straw hats for men became popular in the nineteenth century. Light and permeable, they were typically worn in summer, often at sports outings. Most popular was the straw boater, originally worn at boating events. At first, the era’s fashion police gave straw hats the side eye and frowned upon their use. However, they gradually won acceptance, and by the late nineteenth century, straw hats were standard summertime male headgear. However, the acceptance came with a caveat. An unwritten rule developed, that straw hats were strictly summertime wear. September 1st became an arbitrary end date for straw hat season, and woe betide those who broke that fashion rule.

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A lifelong history buff, I developed a particular passion for WW2 history as a child, when I spent hours listening to my grandfather, enraptured, as he recounted his wartime experiences in the British East African Campaign and with the British 8th Army in North Africa.

I graduated with a history BA from George Mason University, then went on to get a JD from the University of Virginia School of Law. After lawyering for a decade, I moved to sunny Rio de Janeiro and a less demanding career, opening a tourism agency in Copacabana.

A big chunk of my free time is spent blogging (you can follow me on Quora https://www.quora.com/profile/Khalid-Elhassan ) or freelance writing, mostly about my favorite subject, history.

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