6. The Struggle for Representation Before 1974

Before Beverly Johnson’s transformative cover, mainstream fashion magazines largely excluded Black models, reflecting broader societal biases and discriminatory beauty ideals. Editors and photographers often adhered to rigid, Eurocentric standards, fearing backlash from conservative audiences and advertisers. As a result, talented Black models faced limited opportunities, typically relegated to niche or specialized publications. Even when featured, their appearances rarely received the prominent visibility of mainstream covers. The industry’s reluctance to represent diversity perpetuated harmful stereotypes and reinforced exclusionary practices. Johnson’s breakthrough was not only historic—it illuminated decades of systemic resistance to inclusive representation in fashion media.



